The Ultimate Skin Care Guide for Beginner’s: Understanding skin type, products, ingredients & more.
If you were lucky enough to be blessed with naturally radiant, clear skin then you are one of the lucky ones! For the rest of us it takes a little bit more work, but even with good skin genes having a solid skin routine is key to keeping your skin healthy and ageing well. This guide is here to help you understand your skin, solidify your skin care routine and answer your most commonly asked questions about skin.
1. How to identify your skin type
This is a crucial first step in understanding your skin and building a skincare routine. There are a range of skin types (oily, dry, normal, and combination) each requiring different products and ingredients - use the wrong ones and you could waste your money or even make your skin worse. Whilst the essential steps are the same, the formulation and ingredients can vary greatly, so identifying your individual skin type is key to managing your skin’s needs.
As mentioned above, skin types fall into 4 main categories. We are born with a skin type and we cannot change it, it's in our DNA, but what we can do is manage it to help our skin function as close to normal as possible. You can find out which category you fall into by determining which characteristics below best describe you.
Oily: Oily skin has a higher than average production of sebum. This overproduction of oil can make skin appear shiny with large pores, and is prone to blackheads and/or breakouts. Makeup may slip or crease on oily skin.
Dry: Dry skin is characterised by a lack of oil in the skin. It may look or feel tight, and may appear matte, cracked or flakey.
Normal: This refers to skin that is well balanced, neither oily or dry, is less prone to breakouts, texture, flakeyness or sensitivity.
Combination: These skins usually display 2 or more characteristics in different areas of the face, for example oily and dry. This usually presents itself as oily in the t-zone (chin, nose and forehead) and dry on the cheeks.
What about sensitive skin?
Sensitive skin can be seen as both a skin condition rather than a skin type. Very few people are born with sensitive skin, those with truly sensitive skin will experience frequent reactions, itchiness, redness and discomfort. If your skin is not regularly reactive your sensitivity may be a temporary skin condition as a result of external factors.
There are a few methods you can use to figure out what skin type you are:
The Bare Face Method
To better understand your skin type, wash your face with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Don’t apply any other products then wait 30 minutes to 1 hour before assessing your skin against the characteristics above.
The Blotting Paper Method
Press a clean sheet of blotting paper on each area of your face, then hold the sheet to a light and see how much oil was absorbed. The more oil on the sheet, the oilier your skin, equally if there is little oil on the sheet your skin is dry. If you find some areas are oily and others are dry you are likely to have combination skin.
2. Understanding skin conditions
Skin conditions are usually triggered by something such as lifestyle, pollution, stress, sun exposure, weather, diet, hormones or products. They are usually temporary and can be treated either through skincare products or treatments.
Common skin conditions include dehydration, pigmentation, rosacea, ageing, and acne. See below for a brief explanation of these:
Dehydration: This is caused by a lack of moisture in the skin. It can look dull, feel tight and may have more visible lines or texture. This is probably the easiest skin condition to overcome.
Pigmentation: An overproduction of melanin causes dark patches to form in various shapes and sizes. This can take the form of freckles, melasma, sun damage, age spots, or PIH (post inflammatory hyperpigmentation).
Rosacea: This condition commonly causes prolonged flushing or redness to the face, which may be accompanied by visible blood vessels, dryness, bumps or thickening of the skin. The skin may also feel hot and/or sensitive. Rosacea is more common in women.
Ageing: Signs of ageing skin include loss of elasticity, thinning of the skin, appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and some ageing skin also displays pigmentation such as age/liver spots. This skin condition is largely affected by external factors, which means we have a lot of control over how fast or slow our skin ages.
Acne: This is caused when the hair follicles in our skin become blocked with oils and dirt causing blackheads and whiteheads. More severe forms of acne often also involve papules (red, tender bumps), pustules (large pimple filled with pus), nodules (large lumps under the skin) and cystic lesions (painful, pus-filled lumps under the skin). Severe acne can be painful and cause emotional distress.
If I have more than one skin condition, which should I treat first?
This would really depend on which condition bothers you more, and which would be quicker/easier to treat. Some ingredients can work to target a multitude of skin conditions, so if you choose wisely you could help treat more than one issue at the same time. Bear in mind when selecting your skincare products it should suit both your skin type and skin condition. The exception to this would be if you were sensitive or with rosacea - deal with the sensitivity first so that any further issues can be treated without worsening the sensitivity.
3. How to build a basic skin care routine
For beginners, there are 3 core steps that will build the foundation of your skin care routine - cleanse, moisturise, protect. Whilst you build the habit of doing your routine each morning and evening it's best to keep it simple, and as you get more comfortable you can add in other steps like toners, serums, exfoliators or masks, but for now we’ll just discuss the basics.
Step 1: Cleanse
Generally speaking you should cleanse in the morning and in the evening, the exception to this would be for those with dry skin who can simply splash with water in the morning and then cleanse in the evening. The evening cleanse should never be skipped as this will free your skin of dirt, oils, makeup, dead skin cells and pollutants that gather on the skin during the day.
Step 2: Moisturise
After cleansing you should moisturise the skin to lock in hydration. Look for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or ceramides that will plump the skin and strengthen your skin barrier. You can also find moisturisers that have been combined with other active ingredients to simultaneously target specific concerns.
Step 3: Protect
This is a crucial step in your morning routine. Sun protection is the most important product to protect your skin against sun damage, ageing and serious issues such as skin cancer. Aim for a minimum of SPF 30 every single day - this should always be the last step in your routine, and is not necessary in an evening.
4. Choosing the right cleanser
There are a wide range of cleansers available with different formulations and ingredients - choose your cleanser with your skin type in mind. A good cleanser should never leave your skin feeling tight or stripped of its natural oils. Let's have a look at the most popular types of cleansers available:
Oil - Great for your first cleanse (will touch on this more soon) to lift makeup, not drying at all, suitable for all skin types.
Balm - Same principle as the oil cleanser, can be removed with lukewarm water and a cleansing cloth or pad.
Cream - Ideal for dry or sensitive skin types, won’t foam or leave skin feeling stripped.
Gel - Gel consistency, ideal for acne/oily or combination skin.
Foaming - Ideal for acne/oily skin types, very effective at removing excess oil.
Quick Tip: We advise against using makeup wipes to remove makeup. They tend to be abrasive on the skin with harsh ingredients that can irritate your barrier, and don’t do a very good job of actually removing makeup.
Our top tips for cleansing
Wash your hands first
Use lukewarm water, hot water may irritate your skin
Double cleanse in the evening, especially after wearing makeup
Massage the cleanser in circular motions for 60 seconds before rinsing
You don’t need to be abrasive, allow the cleanser to do the work for you
You can combine your cleanser with a face cloth or cleansing pad if desired, again nothing abrasive
Cleanse right up to your hairline and don’t forget your neck
Gently pat dry with a soft towel after rinsing, it’s best to have a separate small towel for your face (even better if you can use a fresh one every day)
What is double cleansing?
As the name suggests, double cleansing involves cleansing twice. The purpose of the first cleanse is to remove any makeup, dirt, and impurities on the skin's surface, while the second is to ensure any stubborn impurities are removed and to thoroughly cleanse the skin. You only need to double cleanse in the evening, it is not necessary in your morning routine.
Many opt for an oil or balm for their first cleanse (the oily properties of these products are really effective at breaking down and removing makeup) and a foam, gel or cream cleanser for their second cleanse. However, you don’t have to use two separate cleansers, you can absolutely do a double clean with the same cleanser! If you are someone who wears a lot of makeup throughout the day it would be a good idea to consider using an oil or balm for your first cleanse, however those with sensitive skin, rosacea or eczema may want to avoid double cleansing altogether.
Are facial cleansing tools necessary?
In my opinion no one needs a cleansing tool, but they can be a nice addition to your cleansing routine - it’s all down to personal preference. Tools like cleansing brushes can aid with exfoliation and provide a deeper cleanse, however it’s easy to over-exfoliate. They can be costly, and can prolong your cleansing routine. You should also be cautious that the tool is kept clean to avoid bacteria from breeding. But with that being said, if your skin benefits from using one then go for it!
5. How to pick the best moisturiser for your skin
A moisturiser is a must-have step in your routine, the kind you go for will vary depending on your skin type and a few other factors. Here’s some ingredients to look out for:
Emollients - these are oil based substances that will soften and smooth the skin. Examples include Vitamin E, jojoba oil and rosehip oil.
Humectant - these substances will attract water to hydrate the skin. Examples include glycerin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, sorbitol or urea.
Occlusive - these are oily substances that create a barrier over the skin to lock in moisture. They are ideal for skins that struggle to maintain hydration. Examples include dimethicone, beeswax, paraffin, cetyl alcohol or lanolin.
Typically oily skin will benefit from a water based gel or lightweight lotion - look for the word non-comedogenic, this means it won’t block pores or cause further breakouts. Dry skin may benefit from a thicker oil based cream - ceramides are a great ingredient to help protect the skin-barrier.
Do I need a day cream and a night cream?
It’s perfectly fine to use the same moisturiser morning and evening, however some people will prefer a lighter cream for the day and something richer for night. The other thing to consider is the ingredients in your chosen cream. A moisturiser containing SPF should only be used in the morning, and creams containing certain ingredients like retinol should only be used in the evening.
6. What SPF do you need to protect your skin?
SPF is arguably the most important element of your skin care routine. There’s a common misunderstanding that sun protection is only needed in the middle of summer when the sun is glaring when really we should be wearing it every single day, rain or shine.
Finding the right SPF is mostly a matter of personal preference. Formulas will vary from chemical to mineral, lightweight to rich, mattifying to hydrating. Chemical SPFs can be irritating to certain skin types, rosacea or acne prone/sensitive skin may prefer a mineral based product (sometimes referred to as physical SPF). Matte gels or powdered SPF would be a great option for oily skin. Darker skin tones may prefer a chemical SPF as mineral SPFs can sometimes leave a white cast, however this isn’t true for all - you really do just have to try a few options until you find one you love!
Whatever type of SPF you decide to use there are a few non-negotiable’s:
Always use at least SPF30 or above
Ensure it is broad spectrum and will protect against both UVA & UVB rays (check for a star rating on the packaging of UK products, the higher the better)
Apply 2-3 finger lengths of product for your face and neck
Ideally it should be reapplied every 2-3 hours (sprays or powdered SPF are perfect for this). Reapplying is not always possible but should be a priority when in direct sun or after you’ve been in water
Why is SPF so important?
UVA & UVB rays are always present, even when the sun isn’t actually visible, but these rays can be harmful to our skin. Overexposure can lead to skin cancer, sunburn, premature ageing, lines, wrinkles, sun damage and loss of skin elasticity. Age spots or sun damage that appears in your 50s and 60s is the result of overexposure in your teens, it can take years to show the damage so it's best to start protecting your skin early.
Do darker skin tones need SPF?
Darker skin tones do have a built-in SPF level or around 13 which makes them less vulnerable than fairer skins, however the risk of skin cancer is less but not zero. Melanomas (aggressive form of skin cancer) are less common in darker complexions, however black melanoma patients may have a lower rate of survival due to late diagnosis. SPF 30 should be a minimum for everyone, regardless of skin colour.
I have SPF in my other skincare products and makeup, is that enough?
No, you should always use a separate SPF. The protection in these products is likely not enough, and in order to gain an adequate level of protection you’d have to use way more product than needed which just wouldn't work! SPF isn’t expensive, and it’s totally worth it to protect your skin
7. How to level up your basic skin routine
Once you’ve got your basic routine sorted, you can start to look at introducing other things to take your routine to the next level and begin to target your skin concerns…
Exfoliation
When looking to level up your basic routine this is the best place to start. You should exfoliate once or twice a week, depending on your skin’s needs. Physical or chemical exfoliants will slough off dead skin cells, clear debris from within the pores and help you achieve brighter, healthier skin. Physical exfoliants can be harsh so go easy on these, and if you’re sensitive or have acne it’s best to avoid altogether and opt for a chemical exfoliant.
Serums
The next addition to your routine would be a serum targeted for your specific skin concern. Serums are unlike moisturisers and creams, they are typically lightweight and have a higher concentration of active ingredients. You can have a few on rotation should you wish - some serums are ideal for your morning routine, and others better suited for the evening. Generally speaking this would be added in before your moisturiser, both AM & PM. Serums can target a whole range of issues, including pigmentation, ageing, hydration, clogged pores, dullness and more. I’ll discuss active ingredients later in the blog.
Face Oils
Face oils are a fantastic way to lock in moisture, nourish the skin and achieve a healthy glow, especially during the winter months when the cold weather can be harsh on our skin. They are best when used as the last step of your evening routine after your moisturiser. Oils that contain antioxidants or fatty acids such as jojoba, rosehip, squalane or Vitamin E are all great options.
Face Masks
An optional add-on is a face mask no more than once a week which can be added after cleansing. They can be used to treat a range of concerns, from hydration to brightening, clogged pores and more. Clay or charcoal masks are a nice addition for those with oily skin, sleep masks can deliver intense hydration to dehydrated skin and sheet masks can contain a wide range of ingredients to suit any skin type.
Treatments
Introducing a professional skin treatment every 4-6 weeks is a fantastic way to maximise your results. There are a wide range of skin treatments available; microneedling and chemical peels are a great way to target skin concerns such as ageing, pigmentation and texture, facial massage can be beneficial to help relieve muscle tension and increase circulation, and dermaplaning or microdermabrasion can provide deep exfoliation to improve the appearance of your skin.
Quick Tip: When layering your skin care products, a good rule of thumb is to layer in order of texture. You should start with the lightest product and finish with the thickest or oiliest product on top.
8. The best skincare ingredients to look out for
Once you start taking an interest in skincare you’ll likely be more conscious about how the products you use are formulated, and what ingredients they contain. Knowing what active ingredients do and how they can help your skin is important to ensure you’re using the right products to meet your skin goals. There are a huge range of ingredients out there so we’ll just look at some of the most commonly used:
Hyaluronic Acid - will attract and retain water, and prevent water loss to achieve plump hydrated skin. Can be found in almost any skin care product, can easily be combined with other ingredients and is suitable for all skin types but will particularly benefit dehydrated skin.
Vitamin C - will address signs of ageing and pigmentation, has antioxidant properties, can brighten the skin and stimulate collagen production. Is mostly found in creams and serums but shouldn’t be layered with certain active’s such as retinol. Is generally suitable for all skin types.
Retinol - popular anti-aging active that can also target pigmentation, texture, collagen production, congestion or dullness - it's a real multitasker! Suitable for most skin types, but to avoid dryness, irritation or sensitivity, retinol should be introduced slowly.
Salicylic Acid - this BHA (beta hydroxy acid) is great for oily and acne-prone skin as it can help clear pores, exfoliating the skin and fighting breakouts. It’s mostly safe for daily use and can be used with other mild exfoliants or active’s such as Vitamin C.
Niacinamide - another multitasker that has a range of benefits making it suitable for almost all skin types/concerns. It has antioxidant properties, can regulate oil production, strengthen the skin barrier, address pigmentation and improve skin firmness.
Ceramides - these strengthen the skin barrier to maintain hydration, fight ageing and strengthen defences against environmental damage. Often found in moisturisers, they are well tolerated by most skins, are safe for daily use and are easily combined with other ingredients.
Glycolic Acid - this AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) has antioxidant properties and exfoliates the skin to achieve smoother, brighter skin. It’s often found in serums or toners and can be suitable for most skin types however dry or sensitive skin may find it slightly drying.
Lactic Acid - another AHA chemical exfoliant. This can fight hyperpigmentation and texture, it also has moisturising properties making it a great gentle option for dry or sensitive skin.
9. How lifestyle factors can affect your skin
The health of our skin is not only impacted by the products we use, but also the lifestyle we lead and the environment in which we live. A healthy lifestyle can help to achieve radiant, glowing skin. Similarly an unhealthy lifestyle can result in dull, damaged skin with premature signs of ageing. Let’s explore some of the ways your lifestyle can impact your skin health:
Smoking
We know the effects smoking has on our lung health, but it also has a negative effect on our skin health too. Smoking introduces harmful chemicals into our body that damage our collagen and elastin production. It can also harm our bodies' wound healing processes, and shrink blood vessels resulting in reduced supply of oxygen and nutrients to our cells. Smoking is closely linked with premature signs of ageing, and the physical act of smoking can result in smokers lines which are deep set vertical wrinkles around the mouth.
Sun Exposure
Excessive sun exposure can lead to both short term consequences such as sun burn and long term damage in the form of wrinkles, sagging skin, pigmentation and skin cancer. These harmful UV rays are always present, even on a cloudy day - this is why it's so important to wear your SPF every day and act responsibly when sun tanning by avoiding strong midday sun.
Poor Diet
There isn’t necessarily a set diet that will result in healthy, glowing skin but there are specific nutrients which are linked to skin health. Vitamins A, B, C, and E, omega 3 and selenium are key nutrients to look out for - generally speaking a varied diet full of colourful fruits, vegetables, grains, nuts and seeds will fulfil your body's needs. It’s also important to drink plenty of water. You should avoid excessive amounts of sugar and alcohol as these can have detrimental effects on your skin health. You should pay attention to how your skin responds to certain foods, for example some people find that dairy products trigger breakouts. Get to know your skin and its triggers so you can avoid them.
Sleep
Lack of sleep can have a detrimental effect on our skin. In the short term sleep deprivation can lead to dark circles, puffiness, poor skin barrier function, inadequate cell repair and dehydration. In the long term, studies have shown poor sleepers experience premature signs of ageing and an overall lack of satisfaction with their appearance.
Stress
High stress levels can lead to hormone imbalances such as an overproduction of cortisol and inflammation in the body, which can negatively affect skin health. Cortisol can make our skin overproduce oil leading to acne and breakouts, it can also increase blood flow resulting in redness and a breakdown in elastin and collagen. Stress can also trigger conditions such as psoriasis, eczema, and other skin conditions.
Exercise
Aside from the obvious health benefits, exercise can help with skin cell turnover, regeneration and repair. Increased heart rate and breathing can help the body to deliver oxygen and nutrients to our cells more efficiently. It also helps us to manage our stress levels and improve quality of sleep, two things which we already know can help improve our skin health. A lack of exercise leads to poor cardiovascular health and obesity which both contribute to poor skin health.
Fact: About 20% of how we age is based on our genetics, the other 80% comes down to environmental factors, health and lifestyle.
10. The takeaways
Achieving healthy, glowing skin is not a one-size-fits-all endeavour, but rather a personalised and evolving process. Let’s recap the fundamental lessons we've explored: understanding your skin type, identifying concerns, building a tailored routine, and incorporating the right ingredients. From the importance of sun protection to the rejuvenating benefits of a good night's sleep, every step contributes to the health and vibrancy of your skin.
As you venture forward in your skincare journey, remember that perfection is not the goal; progress is. Embrace your skin's unique quirks, be patient, be kind to your skin, and relish in the ritual of caring for yourself.
Share this post
